Blatian fashion

Origins and development

Blatian fashion as we know it can be traced to the last two centuries of the The Ikarian Empire. During this period, embroidered tunics became very fashionable among both the aristocracy and the common people. It is not known who started the trend, some people said the Imperial Court and the civil service began wearing these tunics while other point at the imperial army as the one who began wearing these tunics.
Another accessory that became really fashionable during this period was the hat. Specially the so called Bovorian Hat, among soldiers and commoners. This hat is made of fur, linen or wool. And was especially useful in the northern provinces, as the climate changed and these regions became colder.
The new colder climate also made the Ikarians adopt trousers after the 3rd-4th centuries AP. Something that only soldiers guarding the northern passes dare to use, as it was considered "uncivilized".

Regional variations

In the last two centuries of the Ikarian Empire it seems there were not regional differences between the different regions of the Empire in terms of fashion. It was after the fall of the Ikarian Empire in 460 AP that the economic differences between the northern and southern regions of the former Empire provoked regional variations of the Blatian fashion. (An exception to this is the Republic of Valia that due to their geographical position and climate, combines the styles of both regions).

Northern regions

by Callyxtus

In the colder north, due to the post blatian kingdoms there being poorer that the powerful and wealthy Empires of Blati and Cloudia, tunics decorated with embroidered motifs became a symbol of power and wealth, only soldiers and the aristocracy of those kingdoms dressed in such tunics.

On the other hand, cloaks in the north were decorated with geometrical designs, similar to a tartan. It is not known the origin of such fashion, some people attribute its origin to the Snow Elf Foederatisoldiers who fought in the late Ikarian armies and in the armies of the successor states of the Ikarian Empire, while others argue that it was a north Blatian invention and that the Snow Elves adopted it from the Blatians.

by Callyxtus

Footwear in the North also differs from that of the South. In the north, Snow elf style tall boots are more popular since they are covered with wool on the inside, thus protecting them from the cold during the harsh winter. Another common footwear are wooden shoes called "Succi" in Blatian. These ones are common among peasants and peasants are often called "Succiti" or "people wearing wooden shoes" by the upper classes. And because of that, this word has become synonymous with peasant in the Blatian language

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Southern Regions

by Callyxtus

In the much wealthier south, in the regions around the Interior Sea and in the Old South (the former Ikarian provinces in elven lands) embroidered tunics were much common, and everyone, from commoners, to the Emperor on campaign could be seen wearing those fashionable tunics.

In contrast with the north, cloaks were plain without geometrical decorations aside from the members of the court and the civil service, who wear a rectangular decorated panel usually made of silk. This type of cloaks is reserved to the members of the Imperial administration, the court and the high officers of the army.

by Callyxtus

In the South, leather shoes are more common, aften inspired by the designs of the military footwear. Although in recent times tall leather boots have become really popular among the nobility and the wealthier classes, like merchants, scribes, high priesthood, because they are especially good while riding on horseback.

Commonly used materials

We also find geographical differences regarding the materials used for making clothes. In the North the most preferred materials are wool, cotton or fur. While in the South, linen is preferred for spring and summer clothing, because it's better due to the warmer climate while in winter cotton is also preferred, since it's cold but not as cold in the most northern fringes of the Blatian world.

Silk is reserved for the wealthiest classes of society: the wealthiest of merchants, the landed aristocracy, the senatorial and Imperial families, and courtesans.

Accessories

Necklaces and earrings are very popular among Blatian women, they can be made of silver, gold or bronze. The wealthiest Blatian women can afford a necklace with pearls and precious stones. Commoners sometimes use old Ikarian golden coins as part of their earrings or necklace. Some men, especially soldiers and militiamen from the North, wear torcs as symbols of their status and valour in combat. This custom seems to have been adopted either from the Snow Elves or from the barbarians who invaded the ancient empire.

Belts are vital when it comes to putting on your tunic correctly. In many cases, and for many Blatians, it is a simple rope or a small leather belt. Aristocrats on the other hand, prefer them richly decorated with metal pieces (usually gold or silver) and dyed in bright colours.

The latest fashion at the Imperial Court that is becoming quite popular are very colourful pieces of silk that are tied around the hips and serve as belts. This fashion has spread rapidly among the upper classes, not only in the Blati Empire, but throughout the Blatian world, for example the wealthiest merchants and members of the senatorial class in the Valian Republic wear these types of accessories.

an example of fashion in the Republic of Valia by Callyxtus

Speaking of belts, there is one that denotes not social class, but a profession, and that is the military belt, which has evolved from the times of the ancient Empire of Ikaria to the present day. It is a fairly wide belt, made of leather or hardened fabric, usually red or brown with gold-coloured decorations and buckles.
This type of belt can only be worn by soldiers, officers or personnel assigned to the army such as engineers, scribes, accountants. It is absolutely forbidden for civilians to wear it, and legionnaires wear it with great pride. If you see a Blatian with this belt, even if he is unarmed, you will instantly know that he is a member of the armed forces.

Blatian Military Belt by By the Sword

Blatian couple ring by British Museum

Another fairly common element, especially among the nobility, are rings, these generally have inlaid gems carved with family symbols or religious motifs. The heads of noble families (both men and women) also wear a ring with the personal or family seal in case letters or documents need to be sealed and to verify who sent it.

It is also a very common custom among middle and upper class couples to give each other rings with love motifs or mottos, a portrait of the lovers, or protective images, generally of Gods and Saints.

Court ranks and fashion

Court ranks and the system behind them in the Blatian Court is really complex. Some ranks are identified by the clothing they wear. For example, the crown prince usually wears a gold crown with a gem in the middle, as well as a red silk robe with golden eagles embroidered on it.
The Master of Offices, the Imperial Chancellor also wears a distinctive garment. In this case its a yellow tunic made of silk with the embroidered monogram of the reigning Emperor, a green cloak and a green pointy hat. Senators on the other hand, tend to wear the traditional toga, or a white tunic with a white cloak and a purple rectangular piece in the middle of it, symbolizing their rank.
Other examples of this identification of rank by the clothes ones wear is the rank of president of the Blatian Senate who, according to the protocol of the court is dressed with a rose-coloured and gold-embroidered tunic, a gem-encrusted belt, and a white cloak trimmed with golden bands and with two gold square patch and decoration of ivy leaves; or the chief attendant and assistant to the empress, a very important office at Court, who wears a golden broad belt or a toga, similar to those wore by the Emperor or the mayor of the city of Blati .
Interestingly purple is a colour reserved only for the Emperor, the Empress, and the Co-Emperor (sometimes the Crown Emperor is crowned as Co-Emperor alongside his father as a way of securing the succession). These three individuals are the only ones that can wear purple boots, tunics or cloaks; this is a sign of wealth, since dyeing an entire robe purple is really expensive. Purple and violet are the colours traditionally associated with lightning, and consequently, with the thunder goddess Zerah, ancestor of the great people of Ikaria and also of the Imperial family. The rest o the Imperial family, the princesses and princes who are not the Prince Heir wear red, yellow, or white tunics.
The emperor generally wears white during the celebration of the new year and on the Prophet's Day, this white dress is also embedded with small rubies and pearls to add more showiness and luminosity.
Servants and staff of the Imperial Palace generally dress in white, except in the case of the death of an important person in the imperial family, when they wear black as a sign of mourning.

Blatian Crown Prince depicted in a manuscript. by Oxford Library

Etiquette at Court

At the Palace of the Blatian Rigas court life "passes in a sort of ballet" with precise ceremonies prescribed for every occasion. And etiquette regarding fashion is part of these ceremonies. For example, courtiers can wear hats but they must uncover their heads in presence of the Emperor. And when it is time to go to pray to the Great Temple of Blati no headwear is allowed inside the sanctuary, not even the Emperor can wear his crown in the presence of the gods. This is done so as a sign of respect for the deities as well as recognizing that power on the mortal realm comes directly from them.
There is also a palace office related to fashion, called the "Vestiarius", usually a close relative of the Emperor , whose job is to take care of the emperor's personal wardrobe as well as establishing the appropriate fashion for each ceremony of the court ( a reception of a foreign diplomat, a banquet, religious celebration, funerals, etc... )