The Sumptuary Laws of Calanthi
In The Old Country, the society has become very stagnant so that improving one's station is a generational endeavor. But, of course, many family heads, once achieving freeman status, wish to improve their station for their children. It is axiomatic that children are born into the same social status granted through their parents. The importance of social status is very great in The Old Country and this idea has been brought to Calanthi by the established authorities that founded the kingdom.
To support the idea of social status, apart from economic status, which are not the same thing, the King adopted a series of rules that were to be observed by the citizens and inhabitants of the land. They served two purposes; to permit folks in a social strata to "wear" their status as a badge for other to see, and to grant the members of the highest social strata the ability to enjoy their status at a reduced cost. For example, purple dyes are expensive, so that if anyone could purchase them they would be all the more expensive. But by limiting the demand of purple dyes to only members of the nobility with blood ties to The Royal Family, the demand for purple dyes was greatly diminished and more dye was available to The Royal Family.
For dress, only members of the nobility with direct ties to The Royal Family may wear purple. Other Titled Nobles are permitted to wear a dark blue shade, only a bit brighter than navy blue, called Royal Blue. And there is another shade of deep blue allowed for nobles called Noble Blue, and is worn by distant family members of titled nobles all the way down to the newest nobles recently recognized by the King or his Dukes. After this, Gentlemen and Ladies are allowed to wear a scarlet color to show their status. Important members of the society that are not among the Gentile Class, such as some officers or significant public servants are allowed to wear a deep shade of green.
In addition to the colors of fabrics, there are other items of dress covered in The Rules. Gold buckles and buttons are only permitted to be worn by titled nobles and their immediate family. A Son or daughter of a titled noble that reaches the age of majority (but will not receive a title) may wear only one gold button in a row of buttons, but may not wear other gold metal devices. For this reason, a tradition of placing a row of buttons near the cuff of each sleeve became fashionable among the nobility and the children of a titled noble wear a gold button at their collar on their buttoned jacket with silver buttons down the front, and wear a gold button with two or three additional silver buttons at the cuff of their sleeves in a row. The fashion of wearing a row of buttons was adopted by all of society. All other nobles are permitted to wear silver buttons and buckles. The Gentile classes are permitted to wear copper or brass buttons and buckles. Others, when they wish to appear in the most fashionable dress, wear buttons with bright fabrics over the face of the button, which are made with a domed face to stretch the fabric smooth.
Likewise, plumes worn in the hair or on hats much follow the colored rules. The rules also describe limits on various braids and narrow piping added to clothing. Gold is used for The Royal Family, Titled Nobles and their immediate family members. Silver is allowed for all other nobles. Bright yellow is allowed for officers and high public officials if they may not wear silver. The Gentile classes are permitted to wear white braids and piping. Guilds often define a color of piping used by their members and spouses.
Finally, only nobles, high public officials and officers, and licensed adventurers are permitted to wear weapons and armor within the walls of a city or town. Generally, this means that noblemen wear a longsword or rapier, and possibly a dagger, within a settlement. Others are still permitted to wear their "camping knife", but such a knife is strictly limited in the size of any "cross piece" used to protect the hand. The average freeman or commoner typically wears something called a bollox knife on their belt. Some others wear a knife on a leather thong around their neck, which is of course called a neck knife.
Another portion of The Rules covers dining wear at the table. Candlesticks are governed by the same rules as buttons. Flatwear also follow these rules, although on a daily routine neither gold or silver flatwear are used in the household. Brass is the favored flatwear for affluent folks. Others use wooden flatwear produced by boys as practice in learning how to use their camping knife. Sailors have a particular tradition of making spoons for the ones they love back home. Many skilled woodcarvers come from sailing backgrounds where they have hours to pass and little else to entertain them, and other skilled woodcarvers willing to pass along their knowledge as it gives them something to do. Goblets also follow the rules for gold/silver, but for crystal objects only nobles are permitted to have clear crystal. The Gentile classes are permitted to drink from tinted crystal. Outside this, the common folk usually use fired pottery for drinking and eating. Special fired white pottery are reserved for the nobility. The top echelons have this decorated with gold of silver filigree along the edge.
Only nobles may ride a horse within the walls of a town or city. The local authorities are permitted to grant this privilege to others for their particular city if they wish. Generally, while not part of The Rules, it is forbidden to even bring in an animal like a horse into a town or city. To do so requires a special certificate available only after paying a tax.
Some foods are governed by The Rules. There are so many and the combinations are so subtle that sharing them in this list would be exhausting.
Also, while not part of The Rules, the concept of status is so engrained in Calanthi culture that certain traditions of dress have become fashionable. Tailors and dressmakers have learned that they may add ornaments to garments that indicate the number of generations the owner owes to their status. So a fifth generation Baroness might have five rings of gold piping at the hem of her dress to indicate her status as a fifth generation member of the titled nobility. It happens with some frequency where a wife's family has a longer tradition in the noble ranks than her husband. It is considered a bit scandalous for her to indicate that with the additional ornaments she is permitted, but sometimes that happens.
The addition of fur to garments is also part of The Rules. Only members of The Royal Family may wear ermine. Titled nobles may wear mink in any shade. Other nobles are permitted to wear "silver or gray" furs, usually fox. Gentile classes may wear other fox furs of red, orange, golden, brown or even black. Fur is often added at the collar or the cuffs of garments even when the garment is not appropriate for winter wear. And a full garment of fur is hideously expensive and mainly shows off one's status as wealthy regardless of social standing. Bear robes are worn by those who are high-born and must brave long hours of cold. These robes are more robust and the hide of the bear provides an exceptional barrier to cold winds.
To support the idea of social status, apart from economic status, which are not the same thing, the King adopted a series of rules that were to be observed by the citizens and inhabitants of the land. They served two purposes; to permit folks in a social strata to "wear" their status as a badge for other to see, and to grant the members of the highest social strata the ability to enjoy their status at a reduced cost. For example, purple dyes are expensive, so that if anyone could purchase them they would be all the more expensive. But by limiting the demand of purple dyes to only members of the nobility with blood ties to The Royal Family, the demand for purple dyes was greatly diminished and more dye was available to The Royal Family.
For dress, only members of the nobility with direct ties to The Royal Family may wear purple. Other Titled Nobles are permitted to wear a dark blue shade, only a bit brighter than navy blue, called Royal Blue. And there is another shade of deep blue allowed for nobles called Noble Blue, and is worn by distant family members of titled nobles all the way down to the newest nobles recently recognized by the King or his Dukes. After this, Gentlemen and Ladies are allowed to wear a scarlet color to show their status. Important members of the society that are not among the Gentile Class, such as some officers or significant public servants are allowed to wear a deep shade of green.
In addition to the colors of fabrics, there are other items of dress covered in The Rules. Gold buckles and buttons are only permitted to be worn by titled nobles and their immediate family. A Son or daughter of a titled noble that reaches the age of majority (but will not receive a title) may wear only one gold button in a row of buttons, but may not wear other gold metal devices. For this reason, a tradition of placing a row of buttons near the cuff of each sleeve became fashionable among the nobility and the children of a titled noble wear a gold button at their collar on their buttoned jacket with silver buttons down the front, and wear a gold button with two or three additional silver buttons at the cuff of their sleeves in a row. The fashion of wearing a row of buttons was adopted by all of society. All other nobles are permitted to wear silver buttons and buckles. The Gentile classes are permitted to wear copper or brass buttons and buckles. Others, when they wish to appear in the most fashionable dress, wear buttons with bright fabrics over the face of the button, which are made with a domed face to stretch the fabric smooth.
Likewise, plumes worn in the hair or on hats much follow the colored rules. The rules also describe limits on various braids and narrow piping added to clothing. Gold is used for The Royal Family, Titled Nobles and their immediate family members. Silver is allowed for all other nobles. Bright yellow is allowed for officers and high public officials if they may not wear silver. The Gentile classes are permitted to wear white braids and piping. Guilds often define a color of piping used by their members and spouses.
Finally, only nobles, high public officials and officers, and licensed adventurers are permitted to wear weapons and armor within the walls of a city or town. Generally, this means that noblemen wear a longsword or rapier, and possibly a dagger, within a settlement. Others are still permitted to wear their "camping knife", but such a knife is strictly limited in the size of any "cross piece" used to protect the hand. The average freeman or commoner typically wears something called a bollox knife on their belt. Some others wear a knife on a leather thong around their neck, which is of course called a neck knife.
Another portion of The Rules covers dining wear at the table. Candlesticks are governed by the same rules as buttons. Flatwear also follow these rules, although on a daily routine neither gold or silver flatwear are used in the household. Brass is the favored flatwear for affluent folks. Others use wooden flatwear produced by boys as practice in learning how to use their camping knife. Sailors have a particular tradition of making spoons for the ones they love back home. Many skilled woodcarvers come from sailing backgrounds where they have hours to pass and little else to entertain them, and other skilled woodcarvers willing to pass along their knowledge as it gives them something to do. Goblets also follow the rules for gold/silver, but for crystal objects only nobles are permitted to have clear crystal. The Gentile classes are permitted to drink from tinted crystal. Outside this, the common folk usually use fired pottery for drinking and eating. Special fired white pottery are reserved for the nobility. The top echelons have this decorated with gold of silver filigree along the edge.
Only nobles may ride a horse within the walls of a town or city. The local authorities are permitted to grant this privilege to others for their particular city if they wish. Generally, while not part of The Rules, it is forbidden to even bring in an animal like a horse into a town or city. To do so requires a special certificate available only after paying a tax.
Some foods are governed by The Rules. There are so many and the combinations are so subtle that sharing them in this list would be exhausting.
Also, while not part of The Rules, the concept of status is so engrained in Calanthi culture that certain traditions of dress have become fashionable. Tailors and dressmakers have learned that they may add ornaments to garments that indicate the number of generations the owner owes to their status. So a fifth generation Baroness might have five rings of gold piping at the hem of her dress to indicate her status as a fifth generation member of the titled nobility. It happens with some frequency where a wife's family has a longer tradition in the noble ranks than her husband. It is considered a bit scandalous for her to indicate that with the additional ornaments she is permitted, but sometimes that happens.
The addition of fur to garments is also part of The Rules. Only members of The Royal Family may wear ermine. Titled nobles may wear mink in any shade. Other nobles are permitted to wear "silver or gray" furs, usually fox. Gentile classes may wear other fox furs of red, orange, golden, brown or even black. Fur is often added at the collar or the cuffs of garments even when the garment is not appropriate for winter wear. And a full garment of fur is hideously expensive and mainly shows off one's status as wealthy regardless of social standing. Bear robes are worn by those who are high-born and must brave long hours of cold. These robes are more robust and the hide of the bear provides an exceptional barrier to cold winds.
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